This function is attached to the Grid event handler for the databound event, but using the Mvc helper, like so:
// Datasource and Columns configuration ...
.Events(e => e.DataBound(
The point is, that I configure paging in the Mvc helper and switch it off via js if the records fit on one page. This might not be a viable solution for every scenario, but at least it feels like a frequently required feature in real-world-scenarios. The solution is so simple that Telerik probably thought, why bother with another option in the pageable configurator.
Hope this is of help to kendo grid newbies like myself.